On a cool day in October, I stood on the starboard side of a ferry that was slicing slowly through the rolling waves, wind tossing my hair about wildly. As the boat turned toward the dock – a red gate rose majestically out of the waters, announcing the Shinto Shrine beyond. I was about to arrive on Itsukushima Island 厳島 (colloquially known as Miyajima 宮島 or “Shrine Island”).

We had originally heard about the island off the coast of Hiroshima as “Deer Island”. There apparently are numerous other animal inhabited islands off the coast of Japan: Rabbits on Ōkunoshima and Cats on Aoshima… I love Japan. Miyajima, the island we visited, is primarily famous for the aforementioned torii gate, its Shinto Shrine, as well as Mount Misen, a sacred mountain.

The first thing I noticed after disembarking the ferry were the deer. And they were everywhere: napping beside statues, standing on promontories, strolling around. It was the first time I’d ever been so close to one, and it was magical. For a small second I felt like Snow White, but then one came up and licked my boyfriend’s arm- so maybe he’s the real animal whisperer.

Having our priorities straight, we proceeded directly toward the closest ice-cream stand on the charming island. Mmm matcha flavor is the best, I really can’t pass up an opportunity for ice-cream.

After the important pit-stop and interacting with the countless friendly deer that surrounded us, we headed toward the shrine. Itsukushima Shrine is dedicated to the three daughters of the Shinto God of Seas and Storms, Susano-o no Mikoto, and it was truly beautiful, nestled in the water to seem as if it is floating. We had visited many temples and shrines in Japan, and this ended up being my favorite. It was truly enchanting.

Upon exiting the shrine, my opinion of the “magical” deer somewhat changed. We noticed one harassing an older woman for the food in her backpack. He was being pretty forceful about it too, the young buck wouldn’t leave the poor lady alone. And after walking for a short time I felt a tug on my own backpack. When I turned around there was a deer eating my entrance ticket from the temple! What a jerk.

The appetizing smell of street food couldn’t be ignored for long, so we purchased a couple delicious skewers, keeping an eye out for hungry deer. We explored the island some more, taking in some other famous sites like the largest rice scoop in the world (I bought a more reasonably sized version inside the shrine as a practical souvenir).  The shops around the island town were typical tourist fare, which the deer seemed really interested in browsing. The shop owners had to constantly shoo them away.

 

As the day drew on, it came time to return to the mainland, and catch a train into Hiroshima proper. Then onto the shinkansen back to Tokyo.