What’s emulsion? ampoule? essence? A 10 step beauty routine? What is this??
If you’re like me, you might have been totally lost when seeing these products crowding the shelves for the first time. And having all the details written in Korean didn’t help me understand them any better. As a complete and utter novice, I’ve learned tons through trial and error (a lot of error).
If you walk the streets of Seoul, South Korea – or really any city in South Korea – you will see countless colorful storefronts of skin care shops: Nature Republic, Innisfree, Etude House, The Face Shop, Dr.Jart+, the list goes on. Some of these products are even starting to come to America.
Living in South Korea completely changed my perspective on skincare. Before, I thought one product covered everything I needed, and wow was I wrong. A moisturizer or concealer that touts itself as also having SPF in it does not substitute for sunscreen, and your skin can be amazing if you’re willing to invest the time.
Korean beauty regimens are renown the world over. And Korean people who take care of their skin in this way really do have amazing results. The most important part of a skincare routine is moisture – promoting that dewy “glass-skin” look. Side note: I initially thought this made people seem “sweaty” when I first moved to South Korea – but after trying it out and maintaining a skin care regimen, I have completed changed my perspective. I now receive compliments (which I never did before) on my skin.
So…what is this “10 step” process?
I feel like reading the 10 step routine for the first time can seem overwhelming, especially coming from a wash-your-face-then-moisturize-and-you’re-done method. The 10-step routine usually involves (sometimes in different permutations):
- oil cleanser
- foam/cream cleanser
- exfoliate (only 1-2 times a week)
- toner
- essence
- treatments (ampule/serum/emulsion)
- sheet mask
- eye cream
- moisturizer
- sunscreen
Are there names you don’t recognize?
Me too, when I first started out. Let’s go more in depth:
Toner is the first moisturizing step that helps remove any leftover residue from your cleanser and helps to balance your skin’s pH levels (pH levels out of balance result in acne, wrinkles, inflammation, basically all those things you do not want).
Essence adds an additional layer of hydration to your skin. They also kick-start the skin regenerating process (or cell turnover) that results in more radiant “new” skin (making it look smoother and brighter).
An Ampoule or Serum has higher, concentrated doses of active ingredients and target specific skin issues such as fine lines, dry skin, a dull complex, or anti-aging.
Emulsion is a water-based moisturizer that is much lighter than a heavy facial cream. It acts as a moisture lock, sealing in the hydration benefits from an essence or a serum (which is why it should be applied after these)
The essence/ampule/serum/emulsion steps are highly customizable and are meant to be specific to your skin needs.
Does this work for everyone?
It’s most helpful to try out different products and see what really works for you.
I do not follow the entire 10 steps, but I have added a lot from this method to my daily routine because it works well for me. I don’t cleanse twice nor do I use the treatments often. But overall, it’s good to try it out and see what makes your skin happy!
Sheet Masks are the best invention ever
Sheet masks are these somewhat creepy looking things you put over your entire face that make you look like a character from a horror movie (think Michael Myers of the Halloween franchise). They are amazing, regardless of the creep factor, because they are such a useful tool that helps your skin fully absorb the moisture and nutrients from the mask. You keep it on for 15-20 minutes and then pat in excess when you’re done. An added plus is that they infuse a little meditative relaxation into your day.
Let’s talk about sunscreen
Typical sunscreen in the US is a thick, sometimes oily, mess you slather on your skin when you know you’re going to be outside for an extended period of time – or for a lot of people, only when they’re going to the beach. Sunscreen in Korea, or most of Asia, is light and watery and perfect for the last step in your routine. It will also protect your skin far better than that moisturizer or foundation that says it also has SPF 15.
Protecting your skin from sun damage and ultimately skin cancer is the best choice you can make for yourself. The sun causes fine lines, wrinkles, etc because the UV rays break down the collagen in your skin. The more consistently you wear sunscreen the less chance you will have of developing wrinkles or cancer – so do it!
The dedication to avoiding the sun is serious in South Korea. Women walking around outside during the day will often at least have a hat on. I’ve seen women even more covered up to avoid the sun, wearing hats that wrap around their faces with a viewing window for their eyes, and long removable sleeves that cover their arms.
Popular Ingredients in Korean Skincare Products
Some ingredients you find might sound like they make sense to you, such as aloe, while others might sound a little strange. After learning about the benefits, I’ve become obsessed. A few that might stand out to you that are popular in Korean skincare are:
snail solution or snail mucin is derived from what snails produce to heal cuts on their bodies from rough surfaces. In beauty products (like sheet masks) it restores skin through replenishing moisture and supporting cell regeneration, which helps smooth uneven complexions, fade acne scars, etc)
bee venom helps the production of collagen and increases circulation. It is an anti-inflammatory and is used as in anti-aging products. It’s also said that bee venom is a natural alternative to Botox.
sea kelp or algae is another magic ingredient that targets many different areas such as redness, inflammation, and creates smoother skin.
rose oil is used to moisturize skin, delay signs of aging, and reduce redness or inflammation
volcanic ash works similarly to a clay mask and is amazing at removing oils, dirt, and debris from skin – and results in clean smooth skin!
There are countless other unique ingredients (like placenta or pig collagen) but these are just some of the ones I find more interesting.
Favorite products
There are so many awesome products, some that will clean out your wallet and others that are thankfully affordable. I’m not a fan of paying $100 or more for an eye cream (like the celebrity-adored brand La Mer – I’m sure it’s amazing! But my bank account doesn’t agree).
Etude House (owned by Amore Pacific – which is a higher end brand similar to La Mer in price point) is a popular make-up brand in South Korea known for its bright pink stores and cute girly products. They also make some quality skin care products that don’t break the bank. Particularly: The Moistfull Collagen Cream Line, something I use in my daily routine- and one of my favorite sunscreens is their Sunprise Mild Watery Light which is an amazing sunscreen that does not feel like you’re putting too much on your face.
For face wash, COSRX Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser is great for sensitive skin. 
My face masks favorite is Mediheal N.M. F. Aquaring, it’s a quality mask that deeply moisturizes your skin.
Innisfree Jeju Volcanic Mask is also an awesome mask to choose. It works similar to a clay mask by removing dirt and debris, leaving you with smooth, happy skin.
There are tons of great affordable Korean products out there. And if you’re not worried about price, I’ve really enjoyed the Amore Pacific brand as well when I’ve had the extra money to spare.
To Sum Up:
There is a wealth of information, advice, and tips on the internet regarding Korean beauty and skin care, but if you boil it down to the basics it all talks about: getting adequate sleep, drinking lots of water (i.e. staying hydrated), moisturizing (keeping your skin hydrated), and protecting it from the sun with SPF. Now, go get started on your Korean Skincare exploring, you’ll be glad you did!
Clumsy Adventurer 